“Romeo y Julieta? Montecristo? Cohiba?”
I had climbed the unlit concrete stairs just off a quiet street in central Havana expecting to arrive at a smoker’s boutique. Instead, I found myself standing in Alfonso’s tiny apartment, where a cache of Cuba’s most forbidden fruit—cigars—was carefully piled atop his kitchen table. I hesitated, hovering in the doorway, staring at the wooden boxes. Is this legal? Is this legit?
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Ignoring my trepidation, I picked up a Cohiba. The bands were clean and uniform. The label featured the tell-tale hologram. The logo was a perfect replica to my admittedly untrained eye. But simple logic told me this box—with an asking price of just $100 for 25 cigars—was too good to be true. And yet, Havana had already cast a spell on me, with its bubble-gum-pink and cherry-red classic cars whizzing past crumbling colonial ruins fronted by slender palm trees. So I pulled out my wallet and gave Alfonso two $50 bills. Counterfeit or not, it was a story. And a story is exactly why you come to Cuba.